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The Upper Big Hole Valley

Pond reflection in the Big Hole
Pond reflection in the Big Hole Valley
© Jim Steinberg

Why the Conservancy Selected This Site
The Upper Big Hole Valley is one of only a few western Montana valleys where multi-generational ranches prevail and provide rich habitat for wildlife. It is the highest and widest mountain valley of southwestern Montana, with much of the valley floor above 6,000 feet in elevation. The Big Hole River, emanates from the Beaverhead Mountains and winds for about 150 miles through the 1.8 million-acre valley. This river is a world-renowned native fishery and the only river in the lower 48 states that still supports native fluvial Arctic grayling, a species petitioned for "endangered" status.

Threats
The valley is sparsely populated with about 900 residents and an economy based mainly on ranching. Development pressures are increasing steadily in this scenic valley. 

Over the years, irrigation systems on the Big Hole have degraded the fishery and the riparian areas and reduced water flows in the summer. This gradual degradation of the river has significantly impacted the fluvial Arctic grayling.

Wildlife
Wildlife in this valley and surrounding forested mountains include: elk, antelope, white-tailed and mule deer, moose, bobcat, blackbears and wolverine. Abundant wetlands support beaver, muskrat and more than 40 species of waterfowl and birds. In addition to Arctic grayling, the river supports brook and rainbow trout, mountain whitefish and other fish.

Our Conservation Strategy
To protect the area's rich habitat, the Conservancy, state and federal agencies, and conservation groups have worked with the ranching community to place conservation easements on about 40,000 acres in the upper Big Hole. The Conservancy would like to see another 10,000 acres of working ranches protected over the next five years.

Perhaps as important as the land protection efforts are the cooperative conservation agreements aimed at protecting grayling habitat. The ranching community is collaborating with state and federal agencies, and conservation groups to hammer out agreements aimed at restoring riparian areas, maximizing water flows and making irrigation systems more fish-friendly.

What the Conservancy Is Doing
In 2005, the Dooling Ranch family signed a conservation easement with The Nature Conservancy that forever prevents housing development on the 6,300-acre ranch. The upper reaches of the Big Hole run through the Dooling Ranch, creating a mosaic of wet meadows, marshes and willows. The ranch's upper meadows and forests are home to elk, wolverine, bobcat and many other animals. Conservancy staff are working with the Doolings to develop a forest management plan for the lodgepole pine forests on the ranch.

The Conservancy is raising funds and providing technical assistance to support agency and landowner efforts related to restoration, stewardship and weed management. Currently, Cooperative Conservation Agreements are being negotiated with landowners that are aimed at restoring riparian areas, maximizing water flows and making irrigation systems more fish-friendly. The Conservancy is supporting efforts by Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks to restore seven miles of river critical to Arctic grayling.